Treats: Is it a bribe or a reward?
Can you train a dog without using treats?
Can you train a dog without using treats?
My dog only listens when I have treats in my hand.
The dog does what he wants as soon as I hide the treats.
I don’t exist for my dog without the treats; he won’t listen.
How can I train my dog to listen to me without using treats?
My dog ignores me if I don’t have a pouch with me.
Is it possible to train without the use of a treat?
These are common dog guardian phrases, and you may have used them yourself. When there are no treats, why doesn’t the dog listen to the handler? There are several reasons for this. The main one is that you are almost certainly misusing the treats. You’re using them to bribe the dog rather than as a reward and behavior reinforcement. Training does not consist of bribes or treats. A bribe and a reward for a dog differ primarily in their intent and context of use.
Bribe
Intent: A bribe is typically used to manipulate or bribe a dog into performing a specific behavior. You show treats, and the dog becomes eager to exercise. It doesn’t have to be a conscious action; we frequently show a treat at the start of what the dog is supposed to do but forgets to stop or doesn’t know how to do.
It can be shown or offered before or after (or both before and after) the dog performs a specific action in the hope that the dog will repeat the behavior.
Reward
The goal of the reward is to positively reinforce the dog’s behavior.
Timeliness: To increase the likelihood that the desired behavior will be repeated, the reward (treats) is usually offered immediately after the desired behavior is performed.
In short, bribing and rewarding a dog both involve giving it something in exchange for a specific behavior; the key difference is understanding why we give the dog something in exchange for the behavior, which is known as learning theory. Treats aren’t the only option.
Treats and guidance
All of this is “blamed” on not using guiding method very well. Guidance is “pulling the dog” with a treat to get him to perform the command we want. For example, raising the treat over the dog’s muzzle causes him to sit, while moving our hand away from the treat teaches the dog to follow us. This is fine, but it is critical to repeat the guidance with a treat several times before switching to guidance with an empty hand. Otherwise, the dog learns to follow the treat rather than the command.
No treat = no command performed.
Nevertheless, a reinforcement reward must be given after the task, such as when the dog brings us a specific item. The likelihood of the dog repeating a given behavior presentation increases. The occurrence of a pleasant stimulus (treat) is the result of the dog’s behavior. Such behavior is the application of a piece of the so-called reinforcement square – positive reinforcement. (R+)
Reinforcement theory
Negative reinforcement, i.e. taking something unpleasant out of the dog’s environment, was more commonly used in the past instead of guidance and positive reinforcement. When teaching a dog to sit the traditional way, one says the command “sit” while holding the leash in such a way that the dog cannot tilt his head forward, and one presses one’s hand on the dog’s rump. The likelihood of the dog sitting rises. The result of the dog’s behavior is that the unpleasant factor (simultaneous pulling on the leash and pressing on the dog’s rump) is removed. (R-)
| P+ Positive Punishment Introducing something unpleasant into the dog’s environment. The likelihood of the behavior being repeated decreases. | R+ Positive Reinforcement We add something enjoyable to the dog’s environment (for example, a treat). The likelihood of repeating the behavior rises. |
| P- Negative Punishment We take something enjoyable out of the dog’s environment. The likelihood of repeating the behavior declines. | R- Negative Reinforcement We subtract something pleasant from the dog’s environment. The probability of repeating the behavior decreases |
When we eliminate a behavior by taking away something pleasant (for example, if the dog paws and bites during play, we shout “aaauu” and take away the toy, ending the game). The likelihood of this behavior occurring during the next playtime decreases. (P-).
P+ is simply a punishment for failing to complete a task correctly, such as jerking the leash when the dog pulls or using a spike or electric collar.
Treats, or perhaps something else?
The reward is given after the command is completed, and it can be anything from praise to a joint run with the handler to play (social reward). You can play with other dogs, give the dog a toy, and let him sniff. A reward is something that the dog values at the time. A dry crunch will not satisfy a dog’s desire for a meaty meal. On the other hand, we almost never use anything other than treats as a form of guidance. A toy does not work well in this role – it distracts the dog
Other training techniques
Negative reinforcement and guiding are not the only ways to get some dog behavior. They are simply the simplest, especially for inexperienced dog handlers. Shape or catching methods can also be used to teach a dog.
Shaping
A clicker is frequently used in shaping. When the dog makes a movement that could lead to the desired behavior, we click. For example, when we teach a dog to sit, we “click” the bending of its paws or even the fact that the dog has stopped running. Shaping necessitates planning the training – predicting which movements the dog can perform and which will lead him to the “sit” position. It’s a bit of a hit-or-miss game. Warmth or clicks occur after movements that bring the dog closer to sitting; no clicks (cold) occur when the result does not result in the command. After each click, the dog receives a reward.
Catching
Catching out is a technique used to “hunt” for behavior. If we want the dog to look at us, we catch the moment it does, give a signal, and reward it. The signal is frequently a clicker. The dog is playing and running around, but it suddenly comes up to us and looks at us. Then we click and award the prize.
We use neither verbal nor gestural commands at first in either of these methods. We add a command, actually naming the activity that the dog is already performing, only when the dog eagerly at our side begins to demonstrate the taught behavior – sitting or looking. Then, once the dog has learned the name of the behavior, we trigger it with a command.
These two methods demonstrate how to use a treat as a reward and the importance of not only timing the reward but also “marking” the behavior.
The difference between a command and a signal
A command is a command because it instructs the dog on what we want him to do.
The “click” or “yes” signal confirms to the dog that he is doing something correct and will be rewarded shortly. (Reward signal).
Different signals may be used. It can be a click, which indicates an immediate reward, or it can be a word, such as “good,” which indicates that the dog is doing something correct but must still wait for the reward. It could be a click and the word “catch,” indicating that the dog has done something correct and that the reward will be to throw the tug. However, this is a higher level of education.
To begin, remember to start training with a signal (rather than a treat in your hand), say commands when the dog is listening, and then praise (reward in any way) and release the dog, e.g. “run.” The dog will then know how long to sit or lie down, for example. Releasing can also be a reward!
Your dog will listen even if you don’t have a treat in hand if you send clear messages and understand how he learns.
This is not a suggestion that you should stop rewarding your dog entirely. Your dog will not repeat the behavior if there is no reinforcement. But beware, sometimes the reinforcement comes from unexpected sources; for example, a dog running away is reinforced by the fact that he is free to run around and explore.
